In late April of 2017, I planned and executed an 13 day solo bicycle adventure through Southern France. I used Google Maps, AirB&B, Booking.com and BimBimBikes to plan my route, make my lodging reservations and secure a bicycle rental.
Days 1 & 2: I arrived in Toulouse after a long flight from Seattle via Madrid. The airport in Toulouse was easy to navigate and they also have a regular tram station and route (T2) that gets you into central Toulouse for less than $2 U.S. I stayed at a nice AirB&B only a short walk off the tram line and near the bicycle rental shop. The next day I explored the wonderful city of Toulouse by foot and enjoyed the many parks and older sections of town.
Day 3: After loading up my bicycle, I left Toulouse following the Midi Canal route towards my first stop in Castelnaudary. Initially the cycle path is paved and eventually turns into more of a dirt/gravel path. The weather was good so I had no problems handling the route with my hybrid design bicycle. I did break two spokes on the first day of the ride and eventually seven total spokes broke on my rear wheel. Tip: Make sure your rental bicycle has a strong rear wheel appropriate for touring on rough terrain with loaded panniers. Mine did not.
Day 4: I followed the Midi Canal cycle path to Le Somail and stayed at a nice older hotel with a great restaurant right next door. I saw many boaters on the canal and can only imagine this cruising route gets plenty of use during the summer months. Looks like fun and plenty of locks to keep you active!
Day 5: I left Le Somail and then caught the Canal de la Robine cycle path towards Port-la-Nouvelle. Had a strong headwind off the Mediterranean but the scenery was great. Spent the night in another AirB&B located in Canet-en-Roussillon.
Day 6: Turned NW and headed up into the Pyrenees to a small mountain town named Axat. Followed river valleys and rode past many vineyards along the way. Spent the night at a wonderful little hotel where they had a fine restaurant and many local “friends” to share my dinner with.
Day 7: Got the backroads route to Foix from the locals and enjoyed the ride until the rain came hard just after lunch. Arrived in Foix pretty wet and with a couple more broken spokes on my rear wheel. My AirB&B host fixed me a fine dinner and after a hot shower I was pretty much back to normal.
Days 8 & 9: Lucky to find a small bicycle shop open in Foix and got my spokes repaired along with some new front brake pads. That delay plus getting a bit lost got me into my next destination near Boussenac at nearly dusk. This leg of the journey also included some hefty climbs along part of the Tour de France route, so I was really done when I arrived at this B&B. Lucky for me I had scheduled a rest day at this point and spent the entire next day enjoying the beautiful views across the valley and into the snowcapped mountains near the border with Spain. The hosts were great and my meals (breakfast, lunch & dinner) were all delightful & gourmet caliber.
Day 10: An easier ride into Seix this day and I arrived as they were preparing the town for a 4-day whitewater kayaking competition. The Spring water flow was in full swing and I enjoyed watching the kayakers skillfully threading their way down the river.
Day 11: Another fairly short ride from Seix to Saint Girons on this day. Followed the same river valley out of the mountains and had plenty of time to explore the area along my route. Another nice B&B with a beautiful garden backing up to the river.
Day 12: On this day of cycling I made my way back towards Toulouse and stayed in the town of Montesquieu-Volvestre. Part of this route included about 10 miles on a section of the Velo Tout Terrain (VTT) which is a rails-to-trails route that runs from Saint Girons to Foix. The B&B I stayed at this night was originally built during the French Revolution and it was like staying in a museum. My breakfast table was lit with real candles!
Day 13: My final day was a warm and sunny mostly downhill ride on the backroads to Toulouse and the end of my journey.
Tips:
• Make sure your rental bike is solid enough for your load and the occasional rough path along the Midi Canal.
• Look carefully at your mileages and don’t overestimate your range. I was pretty wasted at the end of my ride on a couple days and wished I had planned for shorter mileages on those legs.
• Look for those routes that get you off the main highways. There are many alternate roads that might be a bit longer but typically have much less traffic and are far more relaxing to travel by bicycle.
